My favourite structure in this beautiful colonial city is the Cathedral, which is an amazing structure built in 1936 with elements of futurism, art deco school and even Sahelian mosque spires! It's named after St Sebastian, the martyred crusader king of Portugal whose name is used for cathedrals across the Portuguese world. There are also quite a few remnants of Mozambique's socialist era, including the war memorial incorporating a half nude woman standing proud - with her Caucasian features, she looks more like a Mother Russia transplanted in the tropics than one built for Mozambiqueans war martyrs.
Gerald was last here 6 years ago when it was, in his words, a dump with few sealed streets. Today, the city is obviously fast recovering. New buildings and businesses are sprouting everywhere. There is even a huge China-built hotel, restaurant, shopping and private residence complex. Most of the roads are sealed and good restaurants are found across the city. We had great seafood at the fish market, at about US$14 per person.